I just got him today and he has been peeing on my floor. Any tips on getting him to stop.
Answers:
You have to house-train him, but it should be fairly easy with the right method: Watch him carefully, and if he sniffs a lot, or justs to turn, then take him outside. If you let him out of your sight, he may have an accident in the house.
House Training
Don't use ammonia to clean up any messes, because it smells like urine to the dog. Use vinegar or the special pet stain cleaners, instead.
1. Watch him very carefully when you are home and take him outside after he drinks, eats, or sniffs around. Keep him outside for 5 minutes, then come back in. but keep careful watch. Always take him to the exact same spot outside for his toilet, and clean up solid waste every few days.
2. When you can't watch him, put him in a crate. You want to try to let him out about every four hours, but he is old enough that he can handle 8 hours, if you are diligent in walking him before and after meals, and before and after leaving for work/school.
3. If you don't use a crate, then confine him in a room, like the bathroom or kitchen that you can cover with newspaper.
4. Put food, water, toys, and bedding in one corner. When you come back after a few hours, take him outside for a walk. Then clean up soiled newspaper, clean the floor underneath with vinegar, and save a small piece for the smell. Place some clean newspaper in another corner of the room, away from her food, and place the smelly piece of newspaper in the corner. Keep newspaper on the rest of the floor.
5. The next day he should have tried to go to the bathroom close to the smelly corner. Repeat the process from above, clean the floor, use new paper, place a new smelly piece of paper in the corner opposite her food.
You are trying to teach him where his toilet is by placing a large blinking sign that says bathroom. Since your dog can't read, you are using a small piece of paper for the same purpose. Your dog has a good sense of smell, so the smelly paper doesn't have to be very large or disgusting. Just a few inches.
6. Keep doing this for a few days, until your dog goes to the bathroom consistently in the same 5' x 5' area. If you are patient and loving, then he may learn to go in an area less than 2' x 2' in less than 4 days, but don't push it.
7. If things are on track after 5 or 6 days, then remove all of the paper, except a 5' x 5' area in the corner, with a small smelly piece of paper.
8. Advanced: If he is a small dog, then you might slowly reduce the area to about 1' x 1', then you can train him to use a kitty litter box inside... but that may be pushing things.
9. When he is consistent, then remove all the paper, and move the smelly piece of paper to the outside to show him where his bathroom is. He may have a few accidents, so try to understand what happened and why he had the accident.
But this method should work for most puppies and dogs.
10. Things to remember:
A. You can remove the paper when you are home and watching him. You only need the paper during the training period of about two weeks, and only when no one is home to watch him, while he is confined in the kitchen/bathroom.
B. Always clean up the floor under any mess or mistake with lots of vinegar to remove the smell.
C. Remember that the smell to a dog is like a large, red, blinking sign to people.
D. Always get rid of soiled newspaper, except for a tiny piece with smell. Replace the soiled newspaper with clean newspaper for the first few days.
Also, walk him, pet him, and talk to him softly... so that he will learn that he has a loving home.
get him neutered.
and house train him
whyd u get a dog if u dont know anything about them
usually shelter dogs are not potty trainerd
You must have gotten a dog that isn't house trained. You can look into getting him neutered, it is recommended by vets that a male dog be neutered unless it's being used for breeding. Humane Societies do not like to see dogs bred because of the pet over population problem.
You can try taking the dog outside to pee, encourage him to urinate out there, around a tree. Most male dogs cannot resist trees so if you want him to pee, take him to one.
Get him neutered asap, and crate train him beginning immediately. It will take about a month for the testosterone to be gone after neutering, but once it is, he won't be so inclined to mark his turf. Crate training is the best way to housebreak a small dog, they can be stubborn when it comes to potty training.
OHHHHH ! Yea! Did you rescue or adopt him, or save him from animal control ?
Bless you ! You will have a good little buddy !
I would take him to beginners obedience to teach him the basics and help you understand how to communicate to him for manners and housebreaking, etc. !
Since he is this age and has not been trained, it will take a while and a lot of persistent from YOU.
Sometimes, small dogs are harder to train. You have to make sure he is not sneaking under the couch or bed and doing the "deed."
Why wouldn't he pee on the floor ? He does not know it's wrong.
When you cannot watch him,
give him a small area where he is safe from danger, pesticides, anything he could choke on.. etc.
Ideal is a large Veri-kennel molded plastic crate,
a child safe plastic area pen for playing (I got mine at a thrift shop!),
a room like bathroom or
laundryroom WITHOUT carpet.
Put in a radio for a little noise. Put in LOTS of toys that are washable in case the cutie patootie gets urine or poop on them.
You can take the plastic crate outside to hose down, spray Fabuloso or Pine Sol and spray out again %26 let dry %26 wipe.
Pick him up and run outside to potty as soon as you get home.
Take him out according to his age. If he just woke up, outside he goes. If he just ate or drank, keep a sharp eye out for his sniffing or pacing behavior - outside he goes. If he has played for 30 minutes and ran to get water and back and forth.... outside he goes - even if he does not need to go!
Carry him at first, then keep a collar on him and a light nylon lead. Lead him with your finger if you don't have the lead or snap the lead on.... don't give him a chance to stop to squat!Carry layers of paper towels in case he is faster than you and pick him up, towels under him and say in anger voice "No, no, no !" put him down outside and put the urine paper down so he'll see this is a good place.
( He may not stop his stream, so he may be through.. you just don't be too far away and be quick about it instead of screaming and making him run while he pees the whole time he's running.)
Teach him the command "go pee" or "go potty" by repeating as she goes and go Yeaaaaa ! and give a treat.
Also, take him to the place in the yard you want him go - - mine are taught to go to the back fence.
After he understands, you can say "Do you need 'go potty?'" and he'll bark or run to the door.
IF you MUST use potty pads I would not unless he needs to be inside for hours at a time....
Put the pads down with a piece of used urine paper on the puppy pad for him to smell. Make a large area away from the bed. As he learns, make the puppy pad area smaller.
And....read through CRATE TRAINING and USE :
http://www.aspca.org/site/docserver/for_...
//////////////////////////////...
HOUSEBREAKING 101 " The Potty War ! "
In an ideal world, puppies come from a highly reputable source, where someone lovingly keeps the litter area clean at all times.
The new caretaker has a fenced-in yard to which no other dogs have access and a stay-at-home schedule that allows frequent potty trips to that yard. Under these circumstances, most dogs are housebroken in only a few weeks. However, most of us live in the Real World.
Real People, Real Pets -
In the Real World, our puppies may have spent enough time in a second-rate facility, puppy mill or pet shop to become accustomed to lying in their waste, which makes crate training difficult.
We may hold jobs that preclude a schedule compatible with a puppy’s developmental needs, or live in housing without fenced-in yards, thus forcing us to paper-train until our pups are fully immunized. The further a lifestyle varies from the ideal, the greater the challenge housebreaking is.
Real World housetraining requires a strategy based on three components:
Consistency: a consistent walking schedule catered to the dog’s developmental stage and individual preferences.
Confinement: a method that helps build bladder and bowel control.
Cleaning: a good enzymatic odor neutralizer to clean up accidents.
Pencil him in !
What is a suitable schedule? Puppies can control themselves roughly one hour for each month of age, up to nine or ten hours.
At three and a half to four months, they can usually stay clean for six to seven hours overnight, but eliminate more frequently during the day. Three walks a day is fine for most dogs eight months or older.
A puppy usually needs to eliminate after waking, eating and exercising.
Charting his output will help you predict his needs more accurately.
Does he soil five or fifteen minutes after dinner, two or ten minutes after waking?
Hold it!
For the first few weeks in a new home, a new puppy may seem like a pee-and-poop machine, but as he matures and develops muscle tone, he will learn to control himself for longer periods between potty trips.
Confinement, preferably in a large training crate, builds control by associating the pup’s distaste for soiling in his special area with soiling inside the house in general.
It is patently unfair to crate a pup for longer than he is physically able to control himself.
In these cases, confine him to a small space such as a bathroom or kitchen with papers at one end and a bed and toys at the other. It slows the housebreaking process and confuses the dog a bit, but it is the best option, short of hiring a pet sitter, if no one can be home with the puppy during an average work day.
Whether using papers or a yard, the pup should wear a leash and collar and remain under your control.
If you don’t acclimate the pup to your presence while he’s relieving himself, you may create a dog who won’t soil in front of you but waits until he’s back in the house and can disappear behind the sofa or under the dining room table.
Do not allow puppies access to carpeting, especially wall-to-wall, when it nears time to eliminate, for they often return to and re-anoint accidents here.
Should an accident occur, get out the odor neutralizer immediately and clean, clean, clean !!
For the average dog, that’s really all there is to housebreaking—well-timed walks, confinement and a good cleaner when all else fails.
It sounds so simple; but if it were, housebreaking-related problems wouldn’t be rated number one on ASPCA's ""Behavior Helpline"" hit parade!
For some pups, the three basics just aren’t enough.
Part II of “The Potty Wars” will offer extra help for people with problem dogs.
Potty Wars II link -
http://www.aspca.org/site/docserver/the_...
(oh, remember your pup can't read - - -so she may not be on the same page as you !! LOL ! - - :-)
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